Travel: Riding VIA Rail’s ‘Canadian’ – Trains

VIA Rail’s ‘Canadian’

Rarely have I heard such a glowing report from a fellow train rider. Recently, my friend and Conway Scenic Railroad’s bridge inspector Wayne Duffett flew from New England to Vancouver to experience the eastward Canadian.

He returned delighted by the experience. Despite a few hiccups on the journey, he was impressed with VIA Rail’s hospitality and exceptional customer service. I asked him to list some of the trip’s highlights, he replied, “the whole thing!” For Duffett, who had traveled on Canadian Pacific/VIA Rail trains in eastern Canada and Maine, this was a trip of a lifetime.

A train with a past

VIA Rail’s Canadian is famous among the world’s great trains. However, the service has undergone transformations. Some history is required to understand its modern operation. In 1954-55, CP improved its transcontinental service on the Montreal-Toronto-Vancouver route with its deluxe all-new Canadian featuring Budd stainless steel streamlined passenger cars and General Motors F-unit diesels. The Budd dome cars offered passengers panoramic views of the Canadian Rockies and were widely publicized in CP’s marketing.

In the 1970s, VIA Rail assumed marketing and operation of most CP and Canadian National long distance services. In 1990, VIA Rail shifted operation of the Canadian from its historic CP route to the more northerly CN transcon.

Seventy years after the equipment’s introduction, the Canadians continue to operate the former CP Budd cars. They are among the last of their kind in regularly scheduled long distance mainline service. Duffett said, “I wanted to travel on the Canadian Pacific stainless steel train before it is phased out. For me, this is the last streamliner. And for anyone wanting to travel in a classic (mid-20th century) North American streamlined train, this is it.” The Canadian carries VIA Rail’s train Nos. 1 and 2, and in long-standing railroad practice, the odd-number train is westbound.

“VIA Rail runs the train in manner worthy of train numbers. This is the flagship and it shows,” he said. “It lives up to its billing. The train is very clean — absolutely spotless. While the exterior of the 70-year-old cars retain their traditional Budd-streamlined appearance, the interior of the train is beautifully updated.

“There were several classes of travel, and I chose ‘Sleeper Class,’ which was excellent. I wouldn’t swap my little bunk aboard the Canadian for the most luxurious hotel in North America. In the evening, the bunks were prepared with blankets turned down at a 45-degree angle. The blankets and pillows were luxury hotel quality. Dennis, our steward, was a gentleman. He was top notch.”

Duffett noted that Pacific Central Station in Vancouver, B.C., seemed small considering the size of the city, yet the station was more than adequate since it only serves a pair of daily Amtrak Cascades, as well as the western termini for the Canadian (which in the winter runs just twice a week). Most memorable was the live oration announcing the eastward Canadian’s departure, “They listed every station in order all the way through to Toronto.”

“I was only traveling as far east as Winnipeg,” he said. “We made stops at Kamloops, Jasper, Edmonton, and Saskatoon. Each stop was long, most were an hour or more.”

This provided an opportunity to get off and walk around.

“There was a lot of freight traffic, which contributed to delays to our train,” Duffett joked, “We didn’t mind the delay, but if you wanted to get there faster, you could pack yourself in a shipping container and take a freight!” Ultimately, the Canadian was significantly delayed by a problem with a freight train.

“It didn’t matter because it gave us the opportunity to spend a third night in the sleeper,” he said. Among the highlights of the trip was the culinary excellence in the diner. “There was choice of four entrées on the menu. One night, I enjoyed the rack of lamb, another I had prime rib,” Duffett said.

“There was a course of fresh dinner rolls, soup, salad. All meals were prepared on board and to a high standard. The service was excellent, and after ordering, the main courses were delivered within minutes to the whole car.”

Duffett followed up his trip with a letter to VIA Rail, commending the staff by name.

He received a prompt reply from VIA Rail’s customer service, “It is a pleasure to encounter a letter such as yours, expressing appreciation for services rendered … It would be our pleasure to serve you again soon.”