Tips for buying a suit off the rack

Avoid anything produced in low-cost manufacturing hubs, he stresses, from a quality and an ethical standpoint. “The more detail that’s shared about where the suit was made, the better. Italy, Portugal, Japan and England are all countries with a long tradition in tailoring and sustainable, family-run manufacturing houses.”

On the subject of construction, Kimber says the main focus is the interlining. “Ensure there’s a canvas interlining to provide structure and shape. Fused interlinings involve gluing the canvas to the suit fabric and are predominantly used in cheaper, mass-produced processes. They can blister and break down in a few years.

“Half- or full-canvas means the canvas has been sewn into the jacket. When it’s sewn in, the canvas moves and moulds to your body shape.”

Simply ask the store assistant about the interlining for details.

Fit, obviously, is crucial. “Look to the shoulder first,” says Kimber. “The shoulders set the frame for the suit. Fabric should sit flat and contoured across them.” Length is important, too. “As a rule of thumb, the length of a suit jacket should sit just below the top of the inseam of your trouser. The sleeve length should sit just above the length of the shirt sleeve, usually just shy of the bend of your wrist.”

While it can be tempting to go cheaper with a ready-to-wear suit, he warns that most suits under the $1000 mark “probably aren’t going to be good quality. Beware of a bargain, as the maker has likely achieved this by compromising somewhere, either on fabric or construction.”

Kimber himself opts for traditional cuts rather than slim. “They don’t showcase the male form properly, and they definitely don’t age well.”

Finally, when you get to see a tailor, he says: “The key points to consider would be shoulders, waist, jacket and sleeve length. If you have to do more than that, the suit’s not for you.”

Do you have a burning style question for our fashion editor? Send it to lauren.sams@afr.com.