This new wine bar is in a former Henrico barber shop

Owner Matt McGuigan took over a long-running barber shop at 409 N. Ridge Road and revamped it into a warm, welcoming wine bar with a focus on new American wine.

A culinary school graduate with a long career in in restaurants and wine, when McGuigan was formulating the plan for his own spot, he considered the lack of American representation in wine bars.

“It’s depressing that you go into most wine bars around the United States, and all they are doing is European wine,” he said. “What’s wrong with American wine, cheese, charcuterie and beer?”

The front of the business is retail — about 60 or 70% of the bottled wines are American, but you will find a few from Europe and other areas McGuigan is passionate about.

Chalkboard paint on the shelves provides an easy way to update changing bottles and pricing — plus many of the bottles feature handwritten tags with tasting notes. The back is a wine bar with all American wines by the glass and snacks made with almost all American ingredients, too.

On a recent visit, McGuigan dolloped house-made caramelized onion it into a bowl and poured a heaping helping of blue corn tortilla chips onto a plate for visitors. He offered a visitor a glass of Kiona Red from Columbia Valley, Washington, explaining that he first discovered Kiona while working as a buyer for Whole Foods over 15 years ago and described the winery as “disarmingly Old World.”

If the words “wine bar” make you think stuffy, unapproachable, or formal, McGuigan wants to change your mind.

“The association of wine with privilege makes me physically ill,” McGuigan said. “That is not why we’re here … farmers don’t get dressed up to make wine. We want to be a neighborhood place where you come as you are to pick up a bottle of wine or sit and have one.”

To that note, you’ll notice that the atmosphere at Click features robin’s-egg-blue walls with 1980s-vibey abstract art. You’ll likely hear retro tunes playing as well.

“It’s not the trappings of a typical wine bar,” McGuigan said, describing his inspiration as “Palm Springs in the 1980s.” There’s also art from local artist Morgan Slade.

The current menu features Southern-American inspired eats, but that will change seasonally. Popular dishes so far include beef and pork meatballs ($10) with a zesty chile tomato sauce, melted cheddar cheese and fresh herbs and an air-fried corn tostada ($4 each or three for $10) with braised chicken, refried beans, white cheddar, lime, corn and pico de gallo.

Even the charcuterie board ($14) features wagyu beef pastrami and Hudson Valley Camembert. You’ll also find McGuigan’s signature coconut chocolate chip cookies with chile-lime glaze that make a lovely summer sweet ($2). On Sundays, Click offers $5 mimosas or $28 pitchers, as well as brunch specials like a mini gluten-free quiche he’s perfecting.

McGuigan is planning to tackle other regions with upcoming food menus — New Orleans and New England are on the short list. A favorite recipe for St. Louis ooey gooey butter cake might even make an appearance.

Richmonders got a preview of Click A Wine Spot when it opened last summer in Carytown’s Reveler with a selection of wines and small plates. As Click transitioned to its own space in the Tuckahoe Shopping Center, Reveler took the food and beverage program in-house.