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The Biggest Summer Trend Is Looking a Little Messy

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The Biggest Summer Trend Is Looking a Little Messy

For at least three years now, the internet has been screaming about the resurgence of indie sleaze. The aesthetic—which was rampant between 2006 and 2012, when everyone looked intentionally hungover and simultaneously as if they’d been run over by a truck—has become an obsession among those too young to know what it was like to text on a flip phone with a screen the size of a matchbox. But the thick smudged eyeliner, ripped-apart tights, oversize cartoon mustache T-shirts, and tight American Apparel silver spandex disco pants of that era have yet to really come back, over the many seasons since the prophecy was declared.

I think the issue is that no one really wants it to come back. No one wants to wear cut-off denim covered in silver studs or a pair of galaxy leggings or thick black velvet choker necklaces in 2024. No one who partook of indie sleaze at the time looks back at their actual outfits with much fondness. I know I see mine and cringe at my long fringe shawls and wide-brim hats. And yet, at the same time, I always find myself wanting to reach through the screen to somehow become that girl again.

There is nothing spectacular to recall about the clothing itself—it was about what you did in it. Like: Going to concerts until the early hours of the morning without recording them on your phone. Being photographed at a party without wondering where you were gonna post the photo later and at what time. Living life with a genuine sense that maybe it would never end. What everyone wants now is to wear the sensation of that feeling on their body.

But the problem is that clothing now doesn’t have the same nonchalance or silliness, because the world we’re living in doesn’t allow for it. Designers know this, which is why they aren’t pulling inspiration from that time. What they are channeling instead is that feeling of carefree messiness, which is why the styling of late has been so … wonky.

Victor Virgile

Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2024

a model walks the runway of the prada fashion show during the milan fashion week womenswear springsummer 2023 on september 22, 2022 in milan, italy photo by estropgetty images

Estrop

Prada Spring/Summer 2023

At Miu Miu, pearls were worn incorrectly, half hanging out of button-up shirt collars. At Prada, everything was intentionally wrinkled. At 16Arlington, sweaters were held up by a shoulder bag held tightly to the chest, exposing the sheer dresses underneath as if by accident. At Ermanno Scervino, models wore see-through white dresses with glittering panties shining underneath, bra straps proudly exposed. Coach models clutched large bags adorned with a bevy of New York City tchotchkes and mugs. The Row’s most recent look book featured models in haphazard layers, like they’d gotten dressed in a rush. At Ottolinger, they wore sweaters ripped apart to expose another shirt worn underneath, spare fabric dangling as they walked.

milan, italy september 23 a model walks the runway at the ermanno scervino fashion show during the milan fashion week womenswear springsummer 2024 on september 23, 2023 in milan, italy photo by estropgetty images

Estrop

Ermanno Scervino Spring/Summer 2024

paris, france october 01 editorial use only for non editorial use please seek approval from fashion house a model walks the runway during the ottolinger womenswear springsummer 2024 show as part of paris fashion week on october 01, 2023 in paris, france photo by justin shingetty images

Justin Shin

Ottolinger Spring/Summer 2024

What they’re responding to is the desire not to look like 2006, but to feel like it. Like for a brief moment, you won’t feel the need to steam your top or change out of something that has a snag or try to conceal your bra straps. Like you’re just alive and living life without the fear of being perceived from multiple angles at all times. Like life isn’t all that complicated.

london, england september 16 precious lee walks the runway at the 16arlington show during london fashion week september 2023 at alva coachworks on september 16, 2023 in london, england photo by jeff spicerbfcgetty images

Jeff Spicer/BFC

16Arlington Spring/Summer 2024

new york, usa february 12 a model walks the runway during the coach ready to wear fallwinter 2024 2024 fashion show as part of the new york fashion week on february 12, 2024 in new york photo by victor virgilegamma rapho via getty images

Victor Virgile

Coach Fall/Winter 2024

As someone who loves to get dressed but also enjoys a bit of chaos in what I choose to wear, I’ve been obsessed with watching this phenomenon. It’s exciting to see signs of life on the runway, as designers embrace details and styling choices that could easily be perceived as mistakes. I like them giving us permission to look like we’re living our lives, while also creating this imaginary alternate universe where maybe life is a bit easier.

a person wearing a black jacket and sunglasses

Courtesy of The Row

The Row Spring/Summer 2024

Originally, my plan for this essay was to style myself in these ways. I wanted to wear little swim shorts sticking out of my skirt like a Miu Miu girl, or throw on a wrinkled dress and tell everyone Mrs. Prada made do it. I wanted to visible bra straps perched proudly on my shoulders. I wanted to grab a sweater with a broken zipper out of my to-be-tailored bags and try to see what I could style it with. But I couldn’t. I just ended up looking like I was trying really hard to be carefree and a little messy, instead of actually embodying that essence. I looked like I was trying too hard.

A couple of days after giving up on this exercise, I wore one of my favorite outfit combinations: slightly preppy top, Chopova Lowena skirt, Margiela heels. It’s my go-to when I want to look good and feel confident. It felt like a return to form. About three hours into wearing this look, I ordered an espresso tonic, and when I put the straw through the lid, the beverage splashed all over my white polo, leaving two large puddle-shaped stains, distributed in such a way it was impossible to conceal them. And my mood was ruined.

a woman taking a selfie in a bathroom

Courtesy of Tara Gonzalez

My favorite Chopova Lowena skirt, worn with a pair of Margiela heels and a stained Calvin Klein top

Walking back to the office, I thought about the dinner I had to go to with no time to change after work, and the ways I could maybe fashion the top into a crop to hide one of the stains. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a girl trying to sneakily take a photo of me and immediately felt a sense of embarrassment. I guess it really does look that bad, I thought. Then she came running up to tap me on the shoulder. “I love your skirt—where is it from?”

I told her, but not before profusely apologizing for my coffee-stained appearance. She shrugged. “I honestly didn’t even notice,” she said. “It works!”

And just like that, I felt a decade younger, leaning into the chaos of life without thinking about it too much. I went back to my desk and took a selfie, barely 30 minutes after lamenting that I wouldn’t be able to document my outfit. A handful of friends complimented the look, suggesting only I could pull off coffee stains, and I told them actually, everyone can. There’s beauty in just letting the mess happen. It kind of just styles itself.

Headshot of Tara Gonzalez

Tara Gonzalez is the Senior Fashion Editor at Harper’s Bazaar. Previously, she was the style writer at InStyle, founding commerce editor at Glamour, and fashion editor at Coveteur.

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