Paul Smith on instinct, autonomy and the danger of fashion “getting too formulaic”

Paul Smith doesn’t mince his words. As the guests of GQ Heroes 2024 saw today, 25 minutes can touch upon everything from a lifelong friendship with David Bowie to Andean minerals to Daniel Day-Lewis‘ biker boots to Notting Hill in its pre-Foxtons creative zenith. At our sixth annual convergence of style, culture and ideas at Soho Farmhouse, the UK’s most fun designer was on form (as is tradition) in conversation with GQ‘s Global Editorial Director Will Welch.

Five minutes before going onstage, Paul Smith was already limbered up. He’s just debuted his latest collection in Pitti Uomo, the historic Florentine menswear trade-show-turned-show-and-tell. “It was very interesting, because it was a brave move [for us] after having a fashion show twice a year for 40 years in Paris. It just felt correct for my company, and for me.

“The normal show schedule is getting bigger and bigger and bigger, and more and more extravagant and costlier. If anyone can do anything more personable, it’s probably me: I’m still the owner, and still the main guy.”

The main guy is known for oscillating between funny bits and an almost mystical recall of his collections from 30 years ago. “Standing up in front of invited guests and just talking through 16 of the outfits had people coming up and saying ‘wow, that was so much more interesting’. Because shows are wonderful. But people don’t tend to really look at them anymore; they’re just using their camera, and it’s quite impersonal.”

So Paul Smith (the designer) gets personal about Paul Smith (the brand). And though huge sprawling brands orchestrate massive media set pieces, he’s beginning to rethink the approach a little. “I think it’s horses for courses. For a company like mine, medium-sized but worldwide in 16 countries, and still independent, you can be brave: there’s no board or committee to explain if it fits into the brand image. This business is built on instinct, the love of the job, the love of clothes. If we don’t watch it, we’re getting too formulaic.”

He points to his employees with teenage children. “They’re so passionate about sustainability and the issues of global warming and flying people around the world. If I was 14 to 18 years of age, I probably wouldn’t want those big shows. I know that the front row might be full of people who have been flown in. Maybe that’s not so honest anymore.”

As our chat wraps up, Smith is quickly ushered into a makeshift set, where he will pick up the arranged flowers and use them as a prop, lifting them up, grinning, chopping at the air in faux karate style. His final words before going onstage seem to swirl around the room: “You have to be brave enough to go from the gut.”