OPINION: The depth of the fashion industry is overlooked

I do not think I’m vain or ditsy for loving fashion, pursuing it in my career and caring about my curated personal style.

If you think the fashion industry is superficial, you need to look deeper. It may not make sense to everyone; however, as someone who has worked and studied in the industry, it’s obvious.

When people think of fashion, they think of the glitz and glam of runway shows, skinny models and overconsumption. Are these things aspects of the fashion industry? Absolutely. But there is so much more.

When I talk about my future aspirations of working for a fashion publication or column, I find myself not being taken seriously and written off as someone without the drive for real, hard journalism. Except, it is real journalism. Highly regarded publications such as The New York Times and The Washington Post would not have style sections if it were not important.

So, why is it important? Well, I’m going to tell you.

Any romantic comedy or fashion movie fan has seen “The Devil Wears Prada.” And if you have seen that movie, there is no doubt you know Miranda Priestly’s iconic monologue about a cerulean sweater.

The monologue finishes with: “However, that blue (cerulean) represents millions of dollars of countless jobs, and it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing a sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room… from a pile of ‘stuff.’”

Though said quite harshly, Priestly makes the point that the clothing you buy is not random even when you think it is. And she is right.

Everything trickles down from the top luxury designers to high street retailers to eventually fast fashion. By the time you see things in stores at an affordable price, it was already designed and shown at Fashion Week nearly a year prior.

Over J-Term in 2023, I had the opportunity to take a Trend Forecasting and Analysis class while studying abroad in Italy.

Our first assignment focused on looking at a market segment. For example, mine was women’s workwear and finding the same product at a high-end, mid-price and low-end retailer to compare. The main notable difference was in production quality; however, we were able to find the same pieces at each price level.

Buyers working for different retailers are not randomly picking what they think will sell. And, it is no coincidence similar styles and colors are seen in every window display as you walk through the mall.

Unless you know to look for it, the work of a trend forecaster is invisible.

At WGSN, a worldwide trend forecasting company, they predict using forecasters and data science looking at “consumer insight, product design direction and trading strategies.”

Trend forecasting can be both short and long-term, looking forward to multiple seasons years in advance.

For example, New York Fashion Week for spring/summer 2025 starts Sep. 6. This gives time for a trend report and for trends to trickle down to mainstream consumers.

Though different designers have such different collections on the runway, connections can be made between them with fabric choices, patterns, colors and silhouettes to develop what will be trending for the season.

However, some people scoff at runways because what often is covered in news and on social media is the couture shows at fashion weeks in New York City, Milan and elsewhere.

It is often thought runway shows are over the top and not wearable, but that is what couture is supposed to be. It is what makes their label and niche. Fashion design is an art form, and creating a high-quality piece takes a lot of time and skill.

I think fashion shows are critical to producing a line. It shows the “next big thing,” and it is a sort of performance. They bring together the garments in a cohesive space with specific styling of accessories, hair and makeup as well as music and light production to tell a story.

Since I’ve started working around fashion shows in the last few years, both on the modeling and walking the runway side of things as well as from the producing side, I have seen the amount of work that goes into them. It takes a lot of time to put in both with designing and with making the show come together.

Working alongside fashion designers, I can see their passion when crafting their collections. Their lines have meaning and they have a story. They’re art.

I have designed and sewn one piece for the runway, and it meant a lot to me to walk it down the catwalk.

In another form of their craft, design labels also make “ready-to-wear” collections for the daily consumer. These collections typically take aspects from the runway to make luxury clothing suited to someone’s everyday lifestyle.

Comparing Chanel’s fall/winter 2023 haute couture collection to their fall/winter 2023 ready-to-wear collection, there are similarities in the color palette: the neutral colors and bright reds, pinks, and yellows, as well as in the style of the knitwear and the classic Chanel matching tweed set. The difference is that haute couture is the art, and ready-to-wear is seen in retail settings.

Fashion’s whole purpose is art and expression. It is used to show the world who you are and who you want to be.

I put a lot of thought into how I dress every day. That is not because my highest value is how I look, but rather it makes me feel more comfortable and confident in my own skin. My style is fundamental to showcasing who I am.

Caring about what you wear and how you do your hair or if you wear makeup does not make someone shallow. Someone’s appearance is just one way they may choose to show off their personality.

Whether you participate in trends or not, you are still participating in fashion. This article barely scratches the surface of an allegedly superficial industry.

Flipping the script and seeing fashion as an intricate industry and dressing as art and expression rather than a symptom of vanity helps create a deeper appreciation for the clothes on your back and how they got there.

So, if you see me walking on campus, judge a book by its cover. How I physically express myself is your sneak peek at who I am on the inside.

Elaina Mankowski can be reached at mank2823@stthomas.edu.