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London Fashion Week Men’s SS25: 5 show to discover

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London Fashion Week Men’s SS25: 5 show to discover

The one in London was one of the most emotional Fashion Weeks in recent years. Birthdays and major milestones, missing relatives, and personal identity were celebrated. In the month of Pride, London kicked off a Fashion Month expected to tap into the most emotional and private side of each included creative, a unique opportunity for insiders awaiting the shows to discover the tender side of the designers and to be moved along with them. We have gathered the 5 best shows of the London Fashion Week Men’s SS25. Here are the ones according to the nss editorial staff.   

1. Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY

The young Charles Jeffrey chose the vibrant Somerset House for his show, an open-air stage. This year marks the tenth anniversary of his brand, which is why this week’s presentation was more of a party than a fashion week show. As the designer told us, the SS25 was conceived as a 24-hour capsule, to be worn from the moment of waking to the moment of sleeping, with makeup still on the face. There were the banana-boots, already ultra-viral in recent months, men’s long boxers paired with argyle vests, references to the English industrial revolution, old school uniforms, and office wear – all disproportionate, from Prince of Wales jackets to blue aprons. There was a bride and a plush rhinoceros to carry as armor, crochet bags in the shape of fruit, and all-over prints of a marble statue with fig leaves covering intimate parts. The unpredictable and “innocent” irony of Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY, to the tenth power. 

 

2. Qasimi 

The show at SS25 of Qasimi was the first created by Hoor Al Qasimi, the new artistic director of the brand who took the role in 2019, when her brother and the brand’s founder passed away. The collection pays particular attention to the quality of materials, celebrated through bright natural colors, but includes a special artistic collaboration. Together with New Yorker Kambui Olujumi, the paintings When Monuments Fall were featured on some looks, adding more artistic – and political – weight to the clothes. Voluminous silhouettes in earthy colors paid homage to the Arab roots of Qasimi’s founder, while silk and transparency, as well as structured shirts, initiated an interesting study of the contemporary men’s wardrobe. 

 

3. HARRI 

The HARRI show at London Fashion Week was staged at the Royal Academy of Arts and presented an exercise in extraordinary beauty. In a room bathed in dark blue lights, the brand’s founder Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai explained how the enormous white dress in front of the audience was created, a cream-colored expanse that took five weeks to make, worn for the event by the artist who won Eurovision 2024, Nemo. To the notes of The Code, a song that tells the story of a person coming to terms with their gender identity, Nemo infused pathos into the giant dress in a performance that combined art and fashion, moving everyone present. 

4. Craig Green 

To present the new collection, Craig Green invited the public into his personal studio in Silvertown. Far from the London chaos, the industrial space hosted a show full of nostalgia and references to the past. The SS25 was dedicated to his father, Green told the press after the show, who passed away at the end of 2023. To symbolize the intricate relationship that often develops between father and son, the looks combined English youth clothing with traditional stylistic elements, such as sneakers and Fred Perry polo shirts with intricate vests and knitwear. In a collection full of emotion, from the choice to tell the story of losing a loved one to welcoming guests into his own studio, Green also left room for innovation, with leather panels layered on vests and dresses, ponchos, and tunics. 

 

5. Denzilpatrick

Daniel Gayle’s brand is only three years old, but it already leads the calendar of London Fashion Week among the most anticipated names of the event. This week, Denzilpatrick walked at the Swiss Church, in the heart of the city, presenting a collection worthy of an elegant band in a religious context. Brandishing trumpets and musical instrument cases, the models wore monochromatic and utilitarian uniforms in petroleum blue and aqua green tones, floral overalls, and wraparound striped dresses. To celebrate a «summer state of mind» in London, the brand writes, jackets and bomber jackets in transparent turquoise, sleeveless pink knit suits, and very short shorts were produced, to be worn «from the rehearsal room to the poolside». An ode to the sense of freedom felt when the first warm days arrive, allowing us to enjoy the days more leisurely, Denzilpatrick’s SS25 served as a blessing to all of London: «we march towards a summer of work and play, with gentle strength and a bit of heroism». 

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