How to Plan an Unforgettable Trip to Rome, According to Local Experts

For me, the Eternal City is eternally fabulous. No matter how crowded it gets, how dysfunctional its current government is, or how many bad pizzas there are in ratio to good ones, Rome remains. It’s persisted and resisted for more than 2,775 years, and even at this ripe old age, Rome is still evolving. 

It’s an exciting time to visit Rome, and even for people who live there, the flurry of post-pandemic activity in the travel sector has been dizzying. “Archaeological sites that have been fenced-off for years are now accessible to visitors, there’s a host of innovative new tour options, and I can barely keep up with the number of absolutely stunning luxury hotels that have opened,” says Travel + Leisure contributor and Rome resident Laura Itzkowitz, who also writes about Rome in her newsletter, The New Roman Times. “It’s a delight to see so much investment in the city and so many new ways to experience it.” 

No matter how you decide to see the city or whether your tastes swing towards art and architecture, high-end shopping and dining, or browsing markets and munching on street food, Rome gives you options. We asked Itzkowitz and some other Rome travel experts to weigh in on their favorite places and experiences to recommend in eternal Rome.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Palazzo Vilòn

If there’s one thing our experts agree on, it’s that Palazzo Vilòn luxury apartment is the most sumptuous new address in Rome. Nicole Bono, luxury travel and events planner with Bono Events International says, “When they open the doors for you, your jaw will drop.” Gary Portuesi, a T+L Top Travel Advisor with Authentic Explorations, says that at Vilòn, “you get to live like a Roman aristocrat in an intimate palazzo in the best neighborhood.”

Singer Palace

“I’m in love with the Singer Palace these days,” says Bono of this 19th-century beauty in the former Singer sewing machine headquarters. “It’s family-owned, and that is felt with every single detail in this property. You’re truly cuddled from the moment you walk in the door till your last Spritz before you leave.”

Hotel de Russie, a Rocco Forte Hotel

T+L readers’ favorite hotel in Rome is also a hit with Portuesi, who raves about its “with its unique and secluded Mediterranean tiered secret garden walking distance from the Spanish Steps, Fontana di Trevi and Piazza del Popolo.” The hotel’s Stravinskij Bar remains one of Rome’s most elegant locales for a cocktail.  

Hotel Mediterraneo

Every time I exit Termini Station, I sigh with comfort at the sight of this trusty four-star in a fascist-era Art Deco building. Stepping through the doors feels like stepping back in time, in a good way, with old-school service, a delightful lobby bar, and humongous suites, some with skyline views of Rome.

Best Things to Do

Basilica di San Clemente

For a real sense of how Rome’s history is layered like a lasagna, head to this church near the Colosseum — or rather, underneath it. An atmospheric archaeological area beneath the not-too-shabby 12th-century church holds an even earlier Christian church, which lies on top of a pagan altar and an ancient Roman apartment building.  

ArcheoRunning

If you’re a runner, join archaeologist, guide, and running enthusiast Isabella Calidonna on an early morning jogging tour through Rome’s truly magical empty streets. (Trust me, it’s okay if you run slowly.) If you’re not a runner, don’t sweat it — she’ll be happy to do the same informative tour at a walking pace. 

Via del Governo Vecchio

Spend a late afternoon vintage shopping on my favorite street in Rome, then stick around for an aperitivo, followed by pizza and gelato. If that trifecta of Roman drinking and eating isn’t enough, this splendid street near Piazza Navona has a buzzy but manageable bar-hopping scene. 

Largo Argentina

Want to stand at the very site (or very near it, anyway) where Julius Caesar lost his life? Long visible only from street level and best known as a cat sanctuary among picturesque ruins, the archaeological area at Largo Argentina site is now open to the public, thanks to funding from Bulgari. The Curia of Pompeo, where Caesar got shivved, stands near the ruins of four ancient temples.

Galleria Borghese

Reserve your tickets in advance and prepare to be overwhelmed by the beauty here, both of the ornate salons of this noble palace turned art museum, and the amazing works inside, including Bernini’s spellbinding “Rape of Proserpine” and several Caravaggio paintings.

Best Shopping

Testaccio Market

This sprawling covered market in the working-class Testaccio neighborhood offers an authentic slice of Roman daily life. Even if you’re not shopping for clothing, produce or fresh fish, stop for some of Rome’s best street food, especially a suppli at Food Box or a drippy panino at Modri e Vai. 

Art Privé

Itzkowitz is a fan of this artisan jeweler in Monti and even had owner Antonio design a pair of custom earrings for her wedding. If you don’t have time for a made-to-order bauble, the shop has many original designs, many of which feature colorful gemstones.

Essenzialmente Laura

For a real only-in-Rome gift or souvenir, Portuesi refers friends and clients to the perfumery of Laura Bosetti Tonatto, who’s made custom scents for celebrities, royals, and aristocrats, including Queen Elizabeth II. “You can create your own perfect perfume or find the scent you love,” he says. 

La Bottega del Marmoraro

It’s hard to imagine a store like this anywhere else — a tiny workshop on pretty Via Margutta where stone carver Sandro Fiorentino tinks away at marble plaques by hand. “I love to bring out-of-town visitors here,” says Itzkowitz. “Prices start at around 15 euros, which means you can find an affordable, handmade souvenir.”

Best Nightlife

Fontana dell’Acqua Paola

Some of the best things in Rome are free, including the views from this monumental fountain high on the Janiculum hill. It’s one of T+L’s top underrated things to do in Rome. Fans of the Oscar-winning film “Rome, the Great Beauty” will recognize this majestic spot.

Salotto 42

This classy bar offers great cocktails and light bites with a sublime view. “A table there in the stunning Piazza di Pietra,” says Bono, “with the incredible Roman columns all lit up is truly magical, and it feels like it’s just there for you.”

Hassler Hotel 7th Floor Terrace

The recipe for an unforgettable Roman evening: Start with panoramic city views from atop the Spanish Steps, stir in a specialty cocktail, garnish with some elevated aperitivo fare, and drink it all in at one of our favorite family-run hotels in Italy and one of the absolute best in Rome.

Best Restaurants

Da Enzo da 29

Despite its near-legendary status and the long lines for a table (Enzo doesn’t take reservations), Itzkowitz says a meal here is “worth the wait and lives up to the hype — every time.” She’s a fan of the handmade tonarelli cacio e pepe but says that the food here is consistently good across the menu. 

Trattoria Da Cesare Al Pellegrino

This new-in-2023 sister property of a neighborhood favorite in residential Monteverde brings hearty, traditional Roman pasta and meat dishes to the centro storico. “Run, don’t walk,” says Bono, “because this city location is super charming, and tourists haven’t found it yet.”

Pro Loco Pinciano

Portuesi says you’ll feel like a local at this super-casual pizza and pasta joint just outside the city walls, where the emphasis is on ingredients and wines sourced from the surrounding region on Lazio. Charcuterie platters are delicious and abundant here. 

L’Antica Pesa

Regularly named one of the best restaurants in Rome, this Trastevere culinary landmark is, per Portuesi, “a standard and consistent classic” and worth crossing the river for. Head here for a special dinner or when you’re ready to go big (before going home, maybe?) and order an appetizer, pasta (primo), meat, and dessert for the full Italian dining experience.

Best Time to Visit

You’ve heard all the warnings about visiting in high summer, but if that’s the only time you have to visit, Itzkowitz says to do as the Romans do: rest in your cool hotel room in the afternoon and venture out again in the early evening. Bono agrees that summer can be…sticky but adds, “Those summer sunsets on a rooftop with an Aperol spritz certainly make for that ‘Dolce Vita moment’ we all crave.”

Portuesi recommends November, as it’s still relatively warm and the crowds have thinned out; January, when sale season starts; or April and October. “Tourists might still be there, but the colors of spring and autumn are amazing, and temperatures are on the warm side.” I love visiting in January or February when the crowds are much more manageable, and if you’re lucky, you can catch some lovely, crisp, sunny days.

How to Get There

Most visitors fly into Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci/Fiumicino Airport (FCO). From there, you can take a 30-minute non-stop train to Termini, the central station, and take a taxi, Metro, bus, or tram to your accommodation. A cab from FCO to anywhere inside the Aurelian Walls costs 50 euros. Ride-sharing services other than Uber Black are not available in Rome. 

How to Get Around

Rome’s historic center is primarily flat and highly walkable. Many visitors take the Metro to reach the Vatican Museums, then walk back into the city from there (or take a cab from St. Peter’s Square). 

Buses and Metro, both run by ATAC, are also reliable ways to get around, though depending on the distance, walking may be faster. Note that taxis in Rome cannot be hailed on the street. Instead, they wait at taxi stands or ranks generally located near tourist areas. 

I strongly recommend against renting a car in Rome, as traffic and parking are a mess and the centro is a maze of one-way streets, many of which are pedestrian-only. If you pick up a car in Rome for a more extended tour in Italy, make sure you have your route mapped out in advance — and nerves of steel.